> Well to revisit this topic, I had an unexpected check show up today,
> that was burning a hole in my pocket. So I took the plunge and
> ordered the handlebar mount Supernova E3 from Harris. I ordered it 2
> day shipping, I'm into that instant gratification stuff ;-)
> I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of the UPS man!! I can barely sleep!
I'm waiting too. I think you would simply make a Y adaptor. The
single end of the Y plugs into the Schmidt or Shimano generator hub.
The two ends of the Y go to the two Supernova E3. You would need to
be going 8-10 mph for both to light up fully. Other reports are one
E3 lights up at 4-5 mph. So splitting the current between the two E3
would need double the speed. Should be fairly easy to make a Y
adaptor.
On May 13, 7:42 am, seacat <our2...@comcast.net> wrote:
> I'm waiting to hear from someone that is using 2 of these E3's.
> C'mon, don't make me be the first...cause i'll do it...and you know I
> will. :-)
> Curtis
> On May 13, 1:12 am, "Jim Bronson" <jim.bron...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Well to revisit this topic, I had an unexpected check show up today,
> > that was burning a hole in my pocket. So I took the plunge and
> > ordered the handlebar mount Supernova E3 from Harris. I ordered it 2
> > day shipping, I'm into that instant gratification stuff ;-)
> > I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of the UPS man!! I can barely sleep!- Hide quoted text -
<russellseat...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm waiting too. I think you would simply make a Y adaptor. The
> single end of the Y plugs into the Schmidt or Shimano generator hub.
> The two ends of the Y go to the two Supernova E3. You would need to
> be going 8-10 mph for both to light up fully. Other reports are one
> E3 lights up at 4-5 mph. So splitting the current between the two E3
> would need double the speed. Should be fairly easy to make a Y
> adaptor.
The Y-cable, i.e. 2 E3's in parallel, will probably not work. They
should be connected in series, because the generator provides
(roughly) a constant current. The same was true for connecting two E6
lights to the generator.
Actually, connecting them in parallel would likely be the correct way,as they are similar to running dual Inolight's. See:http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/inoled.asp Note when one wires dual E6 lamps together in series, you are really wiring their voltage regulators in series. This is part of the planned design with the switch wiring on the B&M secondary lamps, the switch on the secondary either shorts the connection thus bypassing the secondary lamp, or is open thus allowing the secondary to work. Bob
> Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 06:47:42 -0700> Subject: [Randon] Re: Supernova E3 Lights at Harris> From: bengto...@gmail.com> To: randon@googlegroups.com> > > > > On May 13, 8:54 am, "russellseat...@yahoo.com"> <russellseat...@yahoo.com> wrote:> > I'm waiting too. I think you would simply make a Y adaptor. The> > single end of the Y plugs into the Schmidt or Shimano generator hub.> > The two ends of the Y go to the two Supernova E3. You would need to> > be going 8-10 mph for both to light up fully. Other reports are one> > E3 lights up at 4-5 mph. So splitting the current between the two E3> > would need double the speed. Should be fairly easy to make a Y> > adaptor.> >> > The Y-cable, i.e. 2 E3's in parallel, will probably not work. They> should be connected in series, because the generator provides> (roughly) a constant current. The same was true for connecting two E6> lights to the generator.> >
I think arguing from analogy is probably not going to provide an answer, since much would depend on the actual circuitry involved. Perhaps checking with Supernova would give an answer that would save either the lights or the generator...
On 5/13/08, Robert Magyar <bob_mag...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Note when one wires dual E6 lamps together in series, you are really > wiring their voltage regulators in series. This is part of the planned > design with the switch wiring on the B&M secondary lamps, the switch on the > secondary either shorts the connection thus bypassing the secondary lamp, or > is open thus allowing the secondary to work.
> Bob
> ------------------------------
> > Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 06:47:42 -0700 > > Subject: [Randon] Re: Supernova E3 Lights at Harris > > From: bengto...@gmail.com > > To: randon@googlegroups.com
> > On May 13, 8:54 am, "russellseat...@yahoo.com" > > <russellseat...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > I'm waiting too. I think you would simply make a Y adaptor. The > > > single end of the Y plugs into the Schmidt or Shimano generator hub. > > > The two ends of the Y go to the two Supernova E3. You would need to > > > be going 8-10 mph for both to light up fully. Other reports are one > > > E3 lights up at 4-5 mph. So splitting the current between the two E3 > > > would need double the speed. Should be fairly easy to make a Y > > > adaptor.
> > The Y-cable, i.e. 2 E3's in parallel, will probably not work. They > > should be connected in series, because the generator provides > > (roughly) a constant current. The same was true for connecting two E6 > > lights to the generator.
-- Peter "Seeing the U.S.A. one brevet at a time" 13 regions and Canada - more to come!
321-794-0500 cell - 352-275-5888 home - Skype me at Peter.F.Noris
two lights can be connected serially, which means that you "insert"
one E3 at one free end of the white cables. The only difference will
be that the light reaches its max. brightness at a higher speed (ca. 9
mph)
Mark
(Lights also available in Redmond!)
On May 13, 8:40 am, "Peter Noris" <pno...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I think arguing from analogy is probably not going to provide an answer,
> since much would depend on the actual circuitry involved. Perhaps checking
> with Supernova would give an answer that would save either the lights or the
> generator...
> On 5/13/08, Robert Magyar <bob_mag...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > Actually, connecting them in parallel would likely be the correct way,
> > as they are similar to running dual Inolight's.
> > Note when one wires dual E6 lamps together in series, you are really
> > wiring their voltage regulators in series. This is part of the planned
> > design with the switch wiring on the B&M secondary lamps, the switch on the
> > secondary either shorts the connection thus bypassing the secondary lamp, or
> > is open thus allowing the secondary to work.
> > > On May 13, 8:54 am, "russellseat...@yahoo.com"
> > > <russellseat...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > I'm waiting too. I think you would simply make a Y adaptor. The
> > > > single end of the Y plugs into the Schmidt or Shimano generator hub.
> > > > The two ends of the Y go to the two Supernova E3. You would need to
> > > > be going 8-10 mph for both to light up fully. Other reports are one
> > > > E3 lights up at 4-5 mph. So splitting the current between the two E3
> > > > would need double the speed. Should be fairly easy to make a Y
> > > > adaptor.
> > > The Y-cable, i.e. 2 E3's in parallel, will probably not work. They
> > > should be connected in series, because the generator provides
> > > (roughly) a constant current. The same was true for connecting two E6
> > > lights to the generator.
> --
> Peter
> "Seeing the U.S.A. one brevet at a time"
> 13 regions and Canada - more to come!
> 321-794-0500 cell - 352-275-5888 home - Skype me at Peter.F.Noris
> two lights can be connected serially, which means that you "insert" > one E3 at one free end of the white cables. The only difference will > be that the light reaches its max. brightness at a higher speed (ca. 9 > mph)
In a nutshell, the article entitled "Twice more light" gives the following advice : - two IQ Fly in parallel provide more light at low speed, especially if there is a 330 uF capacitor in line with them (or one of them?); no gain at higher speed. – two IQ in series (esp. with a 330 uF capacitor in line with the secondary) provide twice more light; gains can be seen at all speeds, but start to be significant at 18-20 km/h.
I remember reading at some point that Schmidt E-delux may be wired in the same ways, so I suspect the same would apply to the Supernovae. The Innoleds are a bit special in that they seem to work equally well at 6 V or 12 V.
This entire discussion hides one aspect: apart from the E6-Z, none of these lights are wired as a secondary headlight. This means that if you wire them in series, you need to keep both switches on. If you want to use only one of them, you'll need to design your own bypass switch.
> – two IQ in series (esp. with a 330 uF capacitor in line with the
> secondary) provide twice more light; gains can be seen at all speeds,
> but start to be significant at 18-20 km/h.
That makes sense, as the same current goes through both lights. LED
intensity is proportional to the current through them. Their operating
voltage, however, is essentially constant.
The speed range of about 20 km/h (12.5 mph) seems to be sufficiently
low for full intensity. Below that speed, there is hardly any need for
full intensity (from either 1 or 2 lights).
> This entire discussion hides one aspect: apart from the E6-Z, none of
> these lights are wired as a secondary headlight. This means that if you
> wire them in series, you need to keep both switches on. If you want to
> use only one of them, you'll need to design your own bypass switch.
That is correct. In my current setup with 2 E6 lights I (and I'm sure
others) have solved this problem with a little switch box containing 2
switches. One to turn the lights on/off, and the other to either short
out either or neither light (the 2nd switch is a STDP with a neutral
center position). At the expense of the extra set of switches and a
bit of wiring, this setup has the advantage over the E6+E6Z
combination, that I can run on either or both lights and - without any
hassle - deal with a burnt-out bulb in either light.
This is on the Supernova E3 website http://www.nova-factory.com/store_en.htm :
"Two serially connected E3s work with the Dymotec S12 and the FER and
any 6V dynamo without any voltage limiting electronics (can be removed
from modern Shimano dynamos, for example). With two E3s on a 6V
dynamo, you will get a max. light output of 120 Lux, but only at a
speed of ca. 8 mph."
Can anyone explain the part about removing the limiting electronics
from the Shimano dynamo? I own a Shimano DH-3N71 generator hub.
On May 13, 3:10 pm, "Bengt-Olaf." <bengto...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > – two IQ in series (esp. with a 330 uF capacitor in line with the
> > secondary) provide twice more light; gains can be seen at all speeds,
> > but start to be significant at 18-20 km/h.
> That makes sense, as the same current goes through both lights. LED
> intensity is proportional to the current through them. Their operating
> voltage, however, is essentially constant.
> The speed range of about 20 km/h (12.5 mph) seems to be sufficiently
> low for full intensity. Below that speed, there is hardly any need for
> full intensity (from either 1 or 2 lights).
> > This entire discussion hides one aspect: apart from the E6-Z, none of
> > these lights are wired as a secondary headlight. This means that if you
> > wire them in series, you need to keep both switches on. If you want to
> > use only one of them, you'll need to design your own bypass switch.
> That is correct. In my current setup with 2 E6 lights I (and I'm sure
> others) have solved this problem with a little switch box containing 2
> switches. One to turn the lights on/off, and the other to either short
> out either or neither light (the 2nd switch is a STDP with a neutral
> center position). At the expense of the extra set of switches and a
> bit of wiring, this setup has the advantage over the E6+E6Z
> combination, that I can run on either or both lights and - without any
> hassle - deal with a burnt-out bulb in either light.
russellseat...@yahoo.com wrote: > Can anyone explain the part about removing the limiting electronics > from the Shimano dynamo? I own a Shimano DH-3N71 generator hub.
I've never done this myself but what you'd need to do is open up the hub and remove the Zener diodes or at least bypass them with a jumper. While removing some diodes and putting a jumper in their place isn't so difficult to do, opening the hub takes some effort as it isn't designed to be serviceable and is pretty annoying to work on from what I've read. (I have a Shimano dynamo hub that needs the bearings cleaned or replaced which I'm putting off for this reason.) Once inside I'm not sure how accessible the electronics are. Once you find the limiting circuit removing or bypassing it is easy.
In general I think going though a lot of effort to install two E3s is a waste. One is very bright and if you *really* need more light you'd be better off supplementing it with battery lights so you have some redundancy.
As I understand it, the Schmidt and Shimano dynamo hubs have no voltage limiting circuitry in them. They instead rely upon the light connected to them to incorporate such. Hopefully that's accurate, since I'm currently working on a homebrew lighting setup which relies on that assumption (making use of ~12v instead of 6)! There's a bunch of interesting discussion of this and related topics at this site:
> > Can anyone explain the part about removing the limiting electronics > > from the Shimano dynamo? I own a Shimano DH-3N71 generator hub.
> I've never done this myself but what you'd need to do is open up the hub > and remove the Zener diodes or at least bypass them with a jumper. While > removing some diodes and putting a jumper in their place isn't so > difficult to do, opening the hub takes some effort as it isn't designed > to be serviceable and is pretty annoying to work on from what I've read. > (I have a Shimano dynamo hub that needs the bearings cleaned or replaced > which I'm putting off for this reason.) Once inside I'm not sure how > accessible the electronics are. Once you find the limiting circuit > removing or bypassing it is easy.
> In general I think going though a lot of effort to install two E3s is a > waste. One is very bright and if you *really* need more light you'd be > better off supplementing it with battery lights so you have some > redundancy.
